How to Make a Wading and Flounder Gigging Light Setup

WADING AND FLOUNDER GIGGING

It's no secret that the brightest and most versatile flounder gigging lights available are the Swamp Eye Submersible Lights, but now it's time to figure out how to make the most of them!

If you’re comparing options or want to make sure you’re choosing the right system for your water clarity, mounting style (boat vs wading), and budget, check out our complete guide to the best flounder gigging lights.

The Swamp Eye Submersible and Mini Swamp Eye Submersible both work well as boat mounted lights or lights for wading and floundering. As you may already know, the Mini Swamp Eye Submersible can be used above water or below water while the full size Swamp Eye Submersible is underwater only.

If you haven't already, I would recommend checking out our commercial grade Flounder Gig, which holds up extremely well for wading and gigging as well as gigging from a boat. The strong barbs and sharp points work well for flounder, sheepshead, gar, and more.

Now let's talk setups for wading and flounder gigging. The cheapest option is always to get your setup right the first time, so we're here to help you based on our experience and the experience of our customers.

If you aren't interested in taking the time to build this yourself, you can purchase our wading and gigging combo: flounder gig and light.

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Quick Reference Guide:

• Build Your Own Flounder Gig & Wading Light Setup (GIG & LIGHT IN ONE)
  • Items Needed - Flounder Gig & Light Wading Combo
  • How to Put the Flounder Gig & Light Setup Together
  • Troubleshooting & Common Fixes
• Build Your Own Flounder Gigging Light Wading Setup (LIGHT ONLY)
  • Items Needed - Flounder Gigging Light Wading Combo
  • How to Put the Wading Flounder Light Setup Together
  • Troubleshooting & Common Fixes

Build Your Own Flounder Gig & Wading Light Setup

Items Needed - Flounder Gig & Light Wading Combo:

• 1x 3/4-inch Schedule 40 Aluminum Pipe (preferred for strength) OR 3/4-inch Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
  This can be difficult to obtain. In many cases it’s easier to purchase a Flounder Gig Pole.
• 1x 1/4-inch stainless U-bolt or 1/4-inch stainless bolt
  Available at a local hardware store. (316 stainless is best in saltwater.)
• 1x Flounder Gig
  3-prong or 5-prong are best. Volusia County (FL) is the only 3-prong-only county we are aware of. If gigging from a boat, 5-prong is typically the better option.
• 1x Light: Swamp Eye Submersible Light or Mini Swamp Eye Submersible Light
  If attaching to gig pole and running above water, Mini Swamp Eye Submersible is recommended. If running a separate underwater light pole, Swamp Eye Submersible is recommended.
• Switch (depends on which light you choose):
  • For Swamp Eye Submersible (dual color): 1x ON-OFF-ON switch or 2x ON-OFF switches (local marine supply or automotive store)
  • For Mini Swamp Eye Submersible or Swamp Eye Submersible (single color): 1x ON-OFF switch (local marine supply or automotive store)
• Wire extensions (optional)
  Usually not needed because lights come with ~10 ft leads. If you extend wiring, use 16–18 gauge and seal connections with saltwater proof wire connectors.
• 1x 12V deer feeder battery
  Available at local hardware store, Wal-Mart, Academy, etc. Higher Ah = longer runtime.
• Extra (optional): Heatshrink Ruler for Flounder Gig Pole
  Turns your gig pole into a fish measuring stick.

The above setup is an all-in-one flounder gig and wading light combo.

How to Put the Flounder Gig & Light Setup Together

Below is a 5-step build for a combined flounder gig + wading light setup. The goal is simple: a rugged gig pole with a light mounted securely, wiring protected, and a battery connection that won’t corrode in saltwater.

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STEP 1 — Mount the Flounder Gig to the Pole

1. Slide the flounder gig onto the end of your 3/4-inch aluminum pipe.
2. Drill the bolt hole and install the included 1/4-inch stainless bolt to lock the gig onto the pole.
3. If you purchase a flounder gig pole, you can skip this step.

Fitment tip: Different pipe schedules vary. If the gig fit is slightly loose, wrap the pipe end with a few layers of electrical tape to snug it up. (This is only for small voids.)

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STEP 2 — Choose Your Light Position (Above Water vs Below Water)

You have two proven options:

• Above-water: light + gig on the same pole (simplest, safest for wading).
• Below-water: dedicated light pole that stays underwater (great definition on bottom, but less area lighting around you).

Recommended lights:

• Above-water: Mini Swamp Eye Submersible (works above or below water).
• Below-water: Swamp Eye Submersible (underwater-only, maximum brightness).

Safety note: When wading, lighting the surrounding area helps you avoid hazards (stingrays, drop-offs, debris). Bright lights aren’t only about seeing more fish — they help keep you safe.

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STEP 3 — Mount the Light to the Pole

Option A: Above-Water Mount (Single Pole Setup)

• Mount the Mini Swamp Eye Submersible to your gig pole using a 1/4-inch U-bolt or 1/4-inch bolt.
• Use 316 stainless hardware for best corrosion resistance.
• Mount the light approximately 2–3 feet above the gig for best flood + penetration.

Why 2–3 feet above the gig? You get enough flood to see around you while still keeping the light close enough to the water to penetrate and illuminate the bottom.

Option B: Below-Water Mount (Dedicated Light Pole)

• Mount a Swamp Eye Submersible to the end of a PVC light pole using a 1/4-inch bolt or U-bolt.
• PVC is best for lightweight light poles; aluminum is better for gig poles.
• To hide wiring, drill a small hole behind the light mount and run the wire inside the pole.
• Otherwise, zip-tie the wire neatly along the pole.

Pro tip: If you run wiring externally, keep it tight and clean so it doesn’t snag grass, oysters, or debris.

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STEP 4 — Wire the Switch (If Using One)

What comes on the lights:

• Swamp Eye Submersible: three (3) leads total; two (2) red positives (one per color) + one black negative.
• Mini Swamp Eye Submersible: two (2) leads; one (1) red positive + one black negative.

Mini Swamp Eye Submersible wiring:

• Best method: Use a simple ON/OFF switch in-line on the red positive wire.
• Quick method: Connect directly to the battery using a heatshrink terminal and disconnect when not in use.

Swamp Eye Submersible (dual color) wiring options:

• Two ON/OFF switches (recommended): each red positive goes to its own switch for maximum control.
• One ON/OFF/ON switch: each red positive goes to an “ON” terminal; the center terminal runs to battery positive.
• Quick method: heatshrink terminals directly to battery (easy, but switches are more convenient).

Saltwater tip: Switch connections corrode fast if they aren’t sealed. Protect them using adhesive heatshrink + tape or sealed connectors.

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STEP 5 — Connect to Your 12V Battery

• Most setups use a 12V deer feeder battery.
• Use a Female Push-On Heat Shrink Terminal to connect to the battery tabs.
• If you need wire extensions, use saltwater proof wire connectors to keep the system sealed and corrosion-resistant.

Done. You now have a rugged, field-proven wading and gigging setup that is bright, simple, and built to survive saltwater.

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Build Your Own Flounder Gigging Light Wading Setup

Some people prefer carrying their flounder gig in one hand and the flounder gigging light in the other hand. If you want to skip having to build it yourself, check out our Flounder Wading Light Stick. Otherwise, if you want to build it yourself, here’s how.

Items Needed - Flounder Gigging Light Wading Combo:

• 1x 6 ft Heatshrink Ruler for Flounder Gig Pole
  Tip: Do all your dry fitting and wiring first, then slide heatshrink into place before gluing, then shrink last for the cleanest look.
• 1x Underwater Flounder Gigging Light
  Swamp Eye Submersible or Mini Swamp Eye Submersible (both are extremely bright and built for saltwater use).
• 2x 6V deer feeder batteries
  These are commonly taped together and wired in series to create 12V. You can use a 12V battery instead, but 2x 6V is usually smaller and lighter.
• 2x 3/4-inch PVC tees
• 2x 3/4-inch PVC caps
• 1x 4 ft length of 3/4-inch PVC pipe cut into: 32", 8", and 6"
• PVC purple primer + clear PVC cement

Installation Tip: Mount everything and run the wire first. Then cut heatshrink to fit, slide it on, glue joints, and shrink heatshrink last for a more finished look.

Don’t want to mess with building it yourself? You can buy it pre-assembled here: Flounder Wading Light Stick

How to Put the Wading Flounder Light Setup Together

This build creates a lightweight, comfortable underwater wading light stick that you can hold out in front of you while your forearm stabilizes the pole.

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STEP 1 — Cut the PVC

• 32 inch = main beam
• 8 inch = forearm brace extension
• 6 inch = handle

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STEP 2 — Mount the Light to the Tee

Drill a hole in the center of one 3/4-inch PVC tee and bolt your light to it:

• Swamp Eye Submersible (maximum brightness, underwater-only)
• Mini Swamp Eye Submersible (works above or below water)

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STEP 3 — Dry Fit the PVC (Do Not Glue Yet)

1. Connect the tee (with the light) to the end of the 32 inch PVC.
2. On the other end of the 32 inch piece, connect a second tee.
3. Connect the 8 inch extension to that tee (inline with the main beam).
4. Do not install the handle yet. You’ll run wiring first.

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STEP 4 — Fit the Heatshrink (Do Not Shrink Yet)

Cut and slide the Heatshrink Ruler for Flounder Gig Pole over each joint area before glue-up.

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STEP 5 — Run the Wiring

• Run the light wire through the PVC and out the end of the 8 inch extension.
• Optional: drill a clean exit hole in the PVC cap for a more finished look.

Pro tip: If the wire gets stuck at the tee where the handle connects, remove the handle and feed the wire through first.

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STEP 6 — Set Your Handle Angle

Assemble the handle and adjust it to your comfort. We recommend approximately a 45° angle relative to the light, so your forearm can brace the extension piece.

Important: Once you glue, you can’t adjust angles — so get the fit right first.

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STEP 7 — Glue the Joints (One at a Time)

1. Take one joint apart.
2. Prime both sides with purple primer.
3. Apply a thin layer of clear PVC cement.
4. Reassemble and hold briefly until set.
5. Repeat for each joint.

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STEP 8 — Shrink the Heatshrink Wrap

• Align the ruler print where you want it.
• Apply heat evenly using a heat gun or torch.
• Start heating from the back of the pole (opposite the ruler print) to avoid visible shrink lines on the front.

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STEP 9 — Wire the Batteries + Terminals

• Attach heatshrink spade terminals to the light wiring.
• If using 2× 6V batteries, connect them in series using a short jumper wire to create 12V.
• If using a single 12V battery, no series connection is needed.

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STEP 10 — Make a Simple Battery Belt Loop

Use a short ratchet strap + duct tape to create a tight battery bundle that you can hang on your waist for easy access. (Fanny pack or backpack also works.)

YOU’RE DONE! GET TO GIGGING!

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Troubleshooting & Common Fixes

1) My light flickers or cuts out

• Most common cause is a loose connection or corrosion. Re-check all terminals and sealed connectors.
• If using a switch, inspect the switch leads for corrosion and reseal with adhesive heatshrink.
• Confirm battery voltage is strong (weak batteries can cause flicker under load).

2) My switch stopped working (saltwater corrosion)

• Use sealed marine-grade switches when possible.
• Seal all connections using adhesive heatshrink or saltwater proof wire connectors.
• After each trip, rinse your setup with fresh water and store dry.

3) I’m not seeing the bottom well

• In muddy or tannin water, run the light closer to the bottom (underwater setup) for better definition.
• If wading in areas with hazards, consider above-water mounting higher for wider visibility around you.
• For more help choosing the right system for your water conditions, see our guide to the best flounder gigging lights.

4) Battery doesn’t last long

• Use higher Ah capacity batteries for longer runtime.
• Drill batteries are convenient but usually low capacity—best for 1 light and shorter trips. Drill batteries typically output more than 12V as well, meaning you will need to setup a voltage regulator. 
• Cold weather reduces runtime—keep batteries warm before use.